Remedii pentru plante si boli ale plantelor, contra la insecte si plagi - engleza

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Remedii pentru plante si boli ale plantelor, contra la insecte si plagi - engleza

Mesaj  scarface la data de Lun Mar 07, 2011 5:42 am


Remedii homeopatice pentru plante si boli ale plantelor, contra la insecte si plagi

Homeopathic preparations that are currently being tested by various
people for plant pests and diseases:

Pests, general:
Bufo rana (common toad)
Latrodectus mactans
Mentha piperita
Ricinus communis (in viticulture)
Sambucus nigra (elderberry)
Tanacetum vulgare (tansy)
Tarantula hispanica
Theridion (tangle-web spider)

For aphids:
Aphidius (trichogramma wasp)
Chrysoperla (green lacewing larvae)
Coccinella (ladybird)
Cimicifuga racemosa (black cohosh, also called black bugbane)
Staphisagrya delphinium ( also called larkspur)
Tropaeolum (Kapuzinerkresse)
Ledum palustre

For scale insects:
Coccus cacti
Thuja occidentalis

For mealybugs:
Chrysoperla (green lacewing larvae)
Thuja occidentalis

For spider mites:
Amblyseius (assassin bug)
Chrysoperla (green lacewing larvae)

For grubs:
Bacillus thuringiensis
Bombyx (Prozessionsspinner)
Tanacetum vulgare (tansy)
Sambucus nigra (elderberry)
Thuja occidentalis

For Whitefly:
Encarsia (trichogramma wasp)
Bufo rana (common toad)

For Nematodes:
Tanacetum vulgare (tansy)
Teucrium marum (cat thyme)
Zincum metallicum

For snails:
Helix tosta
For strengthening and resistance:
Silicea terra
Ocimum (basil) for tomatoes
Chamomilla matricaria

Soil improver
Hyssopus officinalis

For mechanical damage, repotting:
Calendula officinalis
Arnica Montana
Belladonna atropa
Carbo vegetablilis
Symphytum officinalis

For fungal disease:
Aconitum napellus (for light rust)
Allium cepa (for apple scab, mildew on gooseberries)
Belladonna atropa (for red-brown rust)
Calcium carbonicum (Calcarea carbonica)
Cuprum metallicum (for downy mildew)
Fungi comp. (for various fungal diseases)
Kalium muriaticum
Lacticum acidum (for mildew, mosaic virus)
Manganum (for Monilia)
Natrium sulphuricum (rust diseases with waterlogging, + blight in tomatoes and potatoes)
Salicylicum acidum
Sulphur lotum
Thuja occidentalis (leaf curl)
Hepar Sulphuris

Citricum Acidum

Experiences to date
Acidum citricum / Acidum oxalicum

6D for weeds: Following the instructions in the book, I tried Acidum Oxalicum und also Acidum Citricum, both in 6D, as a herbicide. (3 pellets,10 liters water, plants watered, twice within 24 hours)
Unfortunately I could not see any reaction in the plants. I would be glad to hear from other people about this.

Arnica montana

We pruned and poured Arnica 30C once over a cherry laurel (sometimes called an English laurel) that we had already presumed unlikely to survive a harsh winter and transplanting (roots badly damaged). It recovered magnificently.

Aphidius (ichneumon fly)

Aphidius 6 : Lice
Small fruit trees in container were raised in the house on the window sill. The leaves were infested with lice and watered once with Aphidius. After a few days, the lice disappeared.
The small damson tree remained lice-free. The lice returned to the small cherry tree after a while.

Aconitum napellus

Rust on roses: I read the book “Homoeopathy for Farm and Garden” by V.D. Kaviraj with great interest and enthusiasm. I'm just a hobby gardener but I had great success treating rust on roses using Aconitum. I've never had such beautiful roses!!

Belladonna atropa

Belladonna 6D: Downy mildew on grapevines

Report from an organic agriculture consultant based in New Zealand:
One of my winegrowers in this region reported that he had stopped a case of pero (downy mildew) in his Pinot gris and Sauvignon Blanc, which we had confirmed 4 weeks previously (oily spots on about 10% of the leaves), thanks to a dose of the “bella donna” 6D on leaf and soil. There was no pero on the grapes, which will be harvested next week or the week after. He's already looking forward to a good quality and medium-high harvest. So that's my report from the “Sarauer” vine region (Sarau was so named by the Lutheran settlers from Hannover, Germany, who founded it in 1850), Andreas


30C: Rust on roses
Roses already affected by rose rust were watered in 3 separate groups: the 1st group were given Aconitum (3 pellets in a watering can of water), the 2nd group were given Belladonna, and the 3rd group were given pure water (on the soil). Each group was treated once only. Result: the group that were given pure water without a homeopathic remedy largely died off and had to be strongly cut back. The other two groups lost the affected leaves but they retained the less affected and newer leaves, so that they did not have to be cut back so strongly next spring. (SB)

30C: Roses suffering from rust for about 10 years:
This year I watered once a month with Acon. 30C und Bell. 30C, very large flowers, stronger plants and so far very few rust spots on the leaves.


30C: Sunburn on Ficus When we clearing up last summer, our more than 10-year-old ficus was put in the yard in strong sun for 2 days and was affected by severe sunburn, which it showed no sign of recovering from after several months. Almost all the leaves turned gray-white and brown and curled up, as can still be soon on a few leaves, and it lost more than 50% of its foliage by late autumn.
It looked miserable and dried-up right through the winter. Despite our efforts to take care of it, there was almost no new growth and we thought we had lost it. Yet Belladonna 30C (major remedy for sunburn) and Causticum 30C (remedy for burns, dried out and “contracted like a tendinous contracture”), once only in the irrigation water, helped speedily, where all had seemed lost. After just one week, in late winter, the first shoots appeared and after a few weeks it was back to its old glory, looking if anything better than before, with an even fuller foliage. On a few leaves that survived the sunburn, you can still see some bleached and brown remnants of the plant's trauma.

Bombyx (processionary caterpillar)

Bombyx 6: Grubs on roses
Small green grubs had evidently been feeding on the rosebuds. The roses were sprayed several times with Bombyx. There was no more damage seen and the grubs stayed away.

Calcium carbonicum

Calc. carb. 6D: A rhododendron planted last autumn suffered greatly in the summer heatwave. It always looked as if it was short of water. I thought it hadn't properly put down roots in its new location. I then watered it with a single dose of Calc. carb. 6D (5 ml / 10 liters water), from which time it has seemed pretty robust. Let's see what happens in winter and how it blooms in spring. I've been experimenting in my garden for several years with homeopathic remedies and have not needed any more synthetic fertilizers. There's undoubtedly a lot to learn here but I'm absolutely sure that homeopathic remedies will also turn to be a blessing in this area.


Calendula 6: Thinning out of young plants
After thinning out, young salad and tomato plants were watered in the greenhouse with Calendula 6D. They recovered noticeably quicker and grew magnificently.

Carbo vegetabilis

30C: Bambus, outdoors, south-facing garden, biodynamic approach. Bambus had brown leaves after flowering – it had collapsed (late summer 2008); was watered for 3 weeks almost daily with a solution of Carbo veg. in water; sprouted normally again in 2009.
Flowering cherry, outdoors, suddenly stopped growing – no leaves, early loss of leaves in spring 2010 and early summer 2010, heat wave, but sufficient watering. Recovered after the same treatment in July.

Carbo vegetabilis/Arsenicum
I've now been experimenting with a potted rose that threatened to die (summer). No obvious reason, but the leaves became yellow and dropped off, and the buds dried up. Twice I put down a pellet of Carbo vegetabilis and Arsenicum, both 30C, on the ground and watered over it. The leaves stopped falling and then new leaves appeared, and now there are even new buds! The effect of the homeopathic remedies strikes me as a miracle!


Camphora 6: Ants
Several anthills in the meadow were thoroughly watered with Camphora and the ants completely disappeared after 1-2 days. A wooden beam infested with ants was similarly treated in our house. Here too, they quickly disappeared.

Carbo vegetabilis

30C: Bambus, outdoors, south-facing garden, biodynamic approach. Bambus had brown leaves after flowering – it had collapsed (late summer 2008); was watered for 3 weeks almost daily with a solution of Carbo veg. in water; sprouted normally again in 2009.

Flowering cherry, outdoors, suddenly stopped growing – no leaves, early loss of leaves in spring 2010 and early summer 2010, heat wave, but sufficient watering. Recovered after the same treatment in July.
Carbo vegetabilis/Arsenicum

I've now been experimenting with a potted rose that threatened to die (summer). No obvious reason, but the leaves became yellow and dropped off, and the buds dried up. Twice I put down a pellet of Carbo vegetabilis and Arsenicum, both 30C, on the ground and watered over it. The leaves stopped falling and then new leaves appeared, and now there are even new buds! The effect of the homeopathic remedies strikes me as a miracle!

Chrysoperla (green lacewing larvae)

Coccinella and Chrysoperla 6:

Green aphids on the tips of the rose shoots: Coccinella 6 was sprayed and after about 3 days there were no more aphids to be seen. Unfortunately they reappeared and a further spraying with Coccinella did not help. Then I sprayed with Chrysoperla carnea and the aphids were gone – so far (approx 3 months), they haven't returned on the roses I treated.


Coccinella 6: Green aphids on roses, sprayed 1x with the sprayer, the rest were watered on the roots. After approx 1 week, the aphids had disappeared.

Coccinella 6: Green aphids on the tips of rose shoots, 3x sprayed with diminishing dosage on the days indicated by the planting calendar. Aphids diminished and had disappeared after 14 days.

Coccinella 6: Whitefly on Gerbera: pot plant was badly infested with whitefly. Watering with Coccinella 6 showed no effect. After 1x spraying of the leaves, the whitefly were all dead by the next day. The infestation recurred a week later, and a repeated single spraying was just as successful as the first time.

Coccinella 6: Black aphids on blackberry, roses, and cucumbers were watered and sprayed on 3 successive days. After 3 further days, there were no more aphids to be seen.

6D: Rose mallow indoors with aphid (green) infestation was watered once with Coccinella 6D (3 pellets in 10 liters water). No significant improvement in the aphids could be seen (maybe it would have helped to water several times – although Kaviraj advises against this). (SB)

30C: Black aphids on guelder rose. 3 pellets in 10 liters watered once to combat black aphids on guelder rose – after two weeks, there were no more aphids to be seen. (SB)
200C: Aphids on roses. Watering of the plants. All aphids had disappeared within 2-3 days. I only had to spray again 3 months later, and then it was just as successful as the first time. (GP)

Coccus cacti

Coccus cacti 6: Mealybugs
Cactus (indoor plant) infested with mealybugs. Sprayed at intervals of a few days with decreasing dosage of Coccus cacti. The mealybugs diminished and were completely gone after 14 days. The treatment was done on the days recommended in the planting calendar.


Encarsia 6: Infestation of whitefly on various cabbage plants. A treatment of 3 sprayings on 3 successive days had no effect on the whitefly.

Encarsia 6: Whitefly on various cabbage plants (savoy cabbage, cauliflower + brussels sprouts, approx. 10 plants each).
Preventive watering with Encar. 6 – at the time of planting was more or less ineffective. Plants were also given garden lime during planting.
Spraying of the leaf upper and lower sides with Encar approx. 2 days after noticing the infestation led in one week to only a slight reduction. However, the plants showed only a few yellow areas and leaf deformities (= improved resistance?). Then watering with a homemade solution of nettles -> infestation almost gone within 2 weeks. Weather warm and dry (mid-June 2010, Stuttgart, Germany)

Fungi comp.

A strawberry plantation was sprayed 2x in the space of a week with Fungi comp. at the beginning of a case of Botrytis (yellow patches on the leaves). Despite damp weather, the fungus did not spread and did not affect the fruit (in contrast to previous years, when it had spread like an explosion in such weather conditions) .

Helix tosta

Helix tosta 6: Snails / Odenwald, Germany: despite my basic trust in homeopathy as an animal healer, I initially had my doubts whether this would work. I sow my vegetables in winter on the windowsill. Later I move the seedlings to a cold frame – from then on, I always needed to spread slug pellets otherwise nothing survives. This year I tested Helix tosta as described in the book: 1st dose 10 ml in 10 liters of water; 2nd dose a week later, 5 ml in 10 liters water; 3rd dose another week later, 2.5 ml in 10 liters water. The results were amazing. After just one dose, there was not a single snail to be seen! The seedlings were untouched. Later I moved the plants to the field and even there they were undisturbed for quite some time. The snails ate a few plants but didn't return the next day. There was a problem when it rained constantly in the final few days. This seems to cause the protective effect to be lost more quickly. I'm now trying to test the plant groups once a week with a biotensor, to see whether they need another dose. I'll report back to you with my results. In the field, I have the impression – depending on plant type and weather – that the effect of the dose expires at different rates. In greenhouses, the remedy is ideal. Before, I'd already given up planting lettuce. Even in the greenhouse, everything got eaten up. This year, I started another trial out of curiosity. I treated the plants after planting as described. 19 out of 20 plants survived untouched, which I found very convincing. We live between Heidelberg and the Odenwald in Germany, in case the area is of interest to you. (JM)

Helix tosta 6: Strawberries from an organic farm were sprayed with Helix tosta 6 (approx 500 liters / hectare) on a day recommended by the planting calendar. The slugs, which normally eat all the ripe fruit, withdrew into the heart of the plant and ate only a few of the inner fruit. It was striking that there were an increasing number of garden snails (with shells) in the area, but fewer slugs. About one week later, we did a second spraying with 800 liters / hectare on a day suitable for sowing fruit plants. This time we sprayed more into the heart of the plants. The effect was to reduce the areas that were bitten and there were even fewer slugs, and those that were left seemed lifeless. Helix tosta 6: Plants were watered several times with the remedy (it didn't help just to spray). Rocket, which is normally very badly affected, was left alone by the snails. In parsley and marjoram, it didn't help. The effect of the remedy was noticeably reduced in strong rain, so that the treatment had to be repeated.

Helix tosta 6: I have watered strawberries in particular with the remedy. By the next day, there were almost no more slugs to be seen, only a very few strawberries had been eaten. After several weeks, the watering was repeated as some snails had appeared, and afterwards they disappeared again.
A bed with lettuce and kohlrabi was watered with the remedy. Not a single snail was seen on the lettuce, but the kohlrabi was eaten down to the veins of the leaves. There was not a single snail to be seen, so it could have been mice that ate the kohlrabi, particularly as snails would almost certainly have attacked the neighboring lettuce too. Kohlrabi in other parts of the garden – for example, in the middle between two rows of tomatoes – did not show such damage.
The beans were also watered with Helix tosta, and here too there are no snails to be seen. Helix tosta is a complete success and I fully intend to use it again.

Helix pomatia 6C (unroasted snail, maybe worth a try ...)
I watered various young cabbage plants and knapweeds that were sprouting after having faded.
Result disappointing. In cabbages it even seemed to attract them.
Weather was changeable, occasional showers, but not very wet and not for very long, approx beginning of August.

Helix tosta 6: Vegetable garden strongly plagued by slugs was watered several times and sprayed – so far, the snails have not returned.

Helix tosta 6: Lettuce was sowed straight out in April, covered in sheeting and sprayed twice in one week with Helix tosta. There were slugs visible under the sheeting but without any significant damage caused. The lettuce harvest was good.

Helix tosta 6: With Helix tosta 6D good results, hardly any problems with snails, but only until the hot period started. Thereafter I (unfortunately) always watered my beds in the evening, with the result that since then the snails were no longer put off by the Helix. Watering in the evening makes for ideal conditions to encourage the snails. Next year I'll try watering in the morning and then obviously with Helix tosta again.

Helix tosta 6: Organically farmed vegetable beds (no chemical sprays or artificial fertilizers) were watered once with Helix tosta. In the next few days, the slugs gradually retreated and disappeared completely from the beds after 1-2 weeks. In the neighboring grass, too, there were virtually no more of them to be seen.

Helix tosta 6: A few weeks ago, I purchased the snail remedy "Helix tosta", which I've used according to the instructions, watering with it once a week. Straight after the first watering, there were no more snails to be seen. I'd just like to say I'm very pleased with the remedy so far. (C.M.)

Hepa sulphuris

Hepa sulfuris 30C: For fungal attack, I have used Hepar sulfuris 30C (3 pellets /10 liters water) for several years with very good results. I need to apply it only once or twice.

Hyssopus officinalis (Ysop)

Hyssopus 6 for a grapevine that is about 20 years old, unknown type, but sold to me at that time as not requiring chemical sprays. Grapes ocher-yellowish-green, approx 1 cm (0.5 inches) grapes when ripe.
Watered with Hyssop once in approx June/July.
Result: no sick leaves, in contrast to recent years – although in the middle of an area that is farmed with conventional methods involving high use of chemical spraying (Neckar river, Stuttgart area, Germany).
Fewer leaves in total i.e. I didn't have to take off some leaves to allow light to reach the grapes.
Grapes ripe much earlier than in previous years and even sweet! Far fewer bad ones due to wasps etc. - All this despite cloudy, rainy and not especially warm weather.

Latrodectus mactans (black widow)

Latrodectus mactans 6: Roses – buds and flower stalks were full of green aphids. Sprayed once with Latrodectus during sunny weather (dosage 1 ml to 1 liter) – after 3 days, the aphids were dried out, looked silver and transparent.


Ledum 6D: Aphids: Brief report on my (first) experience of treating plants with homeopathy: strong and repeated aphid infestation (mostly green ones, a few black ones, too) on a rue. The use of beneficial insects as pest control was not successful in the long term. 3 pellets Ledum 6D dissolved in ca. 300 ml water, watering of the plant in small amounts over a period of several days. The first few days more frequent, then in reducing frequency. After about 1 week, no more aphids to be seen – this has been the case for 4 weeks now.

Ocimum (Basilicum)

Ocimum 6: Every 2 - 3 weeks – according to the condition of the plants – I sprayed the plants with 10 ml in 1 liter water: lettuce and strawberries with Helix tosta, Kohlrabi with Camphora against ants and now also tomato seedlings with Ocimum basilicum 6. The tomatoes are looking good, just the occasional brown leaf. But this is normal for this time of year because in recent years my tomatoes have only had problems with blight later on.

Salicylicum acidum

Sal. acid 30C: aphids (black) on bush beans (approx 15 plants) and runner beans (approx. 10 plants), both already infested with ants.
Infestation restricted to single stalks, but the aphids were very thick in the infested areas (sorry, no pictures – next time).
Treatment with Sal-ac 30C, approx. 10 pellets dissolved in 1/2 L water and plants sprayed with this mixture (not just the affected areas, but the whole plant, leaf upper and lower surfaces sprayed).
Time of day of the treatment: early evening
Weather hot and dry (June/July 2010, Stuttgart area, Germany)
Effect: major reduction in infestation within 2 days! Yet at the same time earwigs on the beans had increased (although these aren't harmful). In the meantime (approx. 3-4 days), the initially unaffected (and untreated) bush beans on the other side of the vegetable patch also became infested with aphids. Fresh treatment of this group and renewed treatment of the previous group, since there will still some remnants of the aphids there: infestation disappeared completely. In the past 3 weeks, there has been no further infestation and no need for further treatment of any sort.


Shellac 6: Scale insects on kiwis (potted plant, outdoors) were treated with Shellac 6 for a severe infestation of scale insects. Treatment was to water and spray twice in one week. The scale insects became fewer and their scales burst open.

Symphytum (knitbone)

Symphytum: broken branches
Every time I'm astonished by how well broken branches heal with Symphytum. I apply a splint to the broken branch, remove all the leaves and treat it with Symphytum. After a while, the broken section has grown back together again.

Tanacetum vulgare (tansy)

Tanacetum 6: Black vine weevil on rhododendron – severely weakened plants (scrawny shoots, leaves going brown & curling up, sparse blossom) were watered 3 times at intervals of 3-4 days with decreasing dosage - 1 watering can per plant. Approx 14 days after the start of treatment, there was an astonishing burst of energy. The plants are now looking great, full of the joys of life. At times there are still some leaves to be seen that have been eaten by the beetles – I'll try to get rid of these too by spraying.


Thuja 6: House plant with spider mite infestation
Ponytail palm was badly infested with spider mite. Dead leaves were removed; but the new leaves were subsequently also found to be infested. The plant was treated once with Thuja 6, with the result that the spider mites disappeared after a few days.

6D: House plant with scale insect infestation
Watered many times with a solution of Thuja (amount and dosage unknown). Within 2 days, no more movement could be seen – after 14 days, all the scale insects had died. (SB)

200C: Leaf curl in peaches
Red peach tree with signs of disease (reminiscent of large, ugly warts) on the leaves, 4 pellets dissolved in water, this solution used to water the roots – after a short time, normal development with copious peach harvest. (SD)

30C: Grubs on currants: 3 pellets in 10 liters water, applied once by watering, to combat grubs on currants – after one week, no more eaten-away areas could be seen. (SB)

6D: Lyonetiidae moths: These little animals had always left marks on the leaves of my Iberis. The leaves looked like parchment paper and, if badly infested, the plants died. The first time I saw them this year, I watered the plants with Thuja 6D (5 ml /10 liters water) and the spell was broken.

Tropaeolum (nasturtium)

Tropaeolum 6: In a 30-year-old Swiss pine, with severe mealy bugs, a single spraying and a single watering with Tropaeolum 6D (5 ml /10 liters water) brought excellent results (after approx 1 week).

Zincum metallicum

Zincum 200C: for freezing
A hibiscus plant (approx. 2 years old) in an apartment was exposed by mistake to the severe winter cold outside, so that the leaves were damaged, hanging down weakly, lacking in sap. The plant was treated with Zincum 200C, i.e. 3 pellets dissolved in water, then this solution was used to water the hibiscus. By next morning, there was not the slightest sign of damage to the plant – all the leaves were back to full strength.
The same experiment was repeated later. Due to a cold spell, two young hibiscus plants froze and had to be cut back to the stump with a few tiny leaves left (also frozen). One of these plants was treated by watering once with 2 pellets of Zincum 200C dissolved in the water. The other plant was watered with plain water. After two days, the treated plant had recovered from its frost damage and had already started to form new shoots. The other remained frozen. It would be interesting to try treating other frost-sensitive plants and maybe also frost-damaged fruit trees.[b]

Ultima editare efectuata de catre scarface in Mier Apr 13, 2011 12:35 am, editata de 1 ori

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Remedii contra la gandacii colorado de la cartofi

Mesaj  scarface la data de Mier Apr 13, 2011 12:30 am

La cartofi: Phaseolus nanus C6
La vinete Thuja occidentalis C6 sau Phaseolus nanus C6

Remedii contra la furnicile din casa:
Camphora D6 ( se stropesc cu apa cu remediu locurile unde sunt furnicile. Remediu mai eficient decat insecticidele)

Remedii pt. plantele care au frunze bolnave, ca si cum ar fi ruginite
Belladonna atropa C6

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